Saturday February 4th, 2012
We thought that the weather was changeable in Ushuaia, but Punta Arenas gave new meaning to the term changeable. Every 20 minutes a new weather system blows through. Chile is a long narrow country that runs the length of South America and down at this end, borders Argentina. Think of this coast as a weather generating machine and these big weather systems like bowling balls that get hurled out and curve around the point and out to Cape Horn. You really have to dress for the weather here, which means layer, layer, layer. I am not sure why, but Magellan called the Pacific - calm waters - hence Pacifica- compared to the stormy nature of these islands. The straights of Magellan are where the Atlantic Ocean merges with the Pacific Ocean - so lots of forces combining down in this narrow point.
We had been warned the day before by Captain Jonathan that we would need to completely change our itinerary due to one of these massive storm systems brewing out in the Pacific. We were originally due to be in Punta Arenas for the day, then sail through the Chilean Fiords, then off to Easter Island. The decision was made to stay in Punta Arenas for 2 full days to be in a safe harbour, and to see how this dangerous storm progressed. We all have complete confidence in the captain, and had no appetite to be in "dire consequences" (his words), nor 40 foot waves.
We had arranged for a private tour to see more penguins. I must confess we were a bit penguined out, but off we went - Erika, Lynn, Barry and Karen and I. A little sidebar here: one of the passengers has a wonderful project, whereby those interested can join a knitting group every sea day to knit 7 inch squares that are put together for premature babies. I had originally not joined, but Erika persuaded me to miss another activity since she and Karen were really meeting some great people. So she brought me the supplies, and Karen and I knitted our way on the bus out to Otway Sound to see the Magellan penguin colony. The landscape here was dramatically different from Ushuaia. While yesterday we had been in the Andes mountains, today we were on the flat plains. Gauchos (cowboys/shepherds) live out on these desolate lands herding sheep. They are loners who live a very solitary and difficult life. One gaucho rode out in front of our bus, herding his sheep across the road, with the help of his dogs. We also saw plenty of local fauna - rheas, llama like animal, condors.
The weather was bitter, it was spitting rain, and very windy, and the walk on the pebble path and boardwalk took 45 minutes. Then we went to a viewing platform - where we could peer through at the penguins, but not disturb them. We enjoyed the walk, took some pictures, then we walked back for a hot chocolate. Penguins feed for 8 hours a day - so it was interesting to see them busy grooming each other, and swimming out to sea.
Back to the city we went - our impression was that this city of 140,000 was much poorer than Ushuaia. Although we didn't take the tour of the tycoons of Punta Arenas, we did learn that the tipping point for the boom of this city was the building of the Panama Canal, which meant shipping no longer had to use this terribly dangerous and long southern route. Boom and bust is the theme of South America in my mind. I feel that this continent has suffered from those that came and "took" and then left. But the people are all resilient and very glad to have the boom of today - tourism. In its heyday, there were several families that made a lot of money here and built some fantastic homes. One of them was Sarah Braun, who along with her Spanish husband were terrifically successful and they became big benefactors including the cemetery. We were dropped at this beautiful cemetery for about 40 minutes.
Then we were dropped at the centre square where Jeff, Erika, Lynn, Karen and I decided to de-bus and go shopping. We were not impressed with the town, which seemed depressed, the goods were horrible, and the weather even worse. We went to the local market in the square and then ran for a cafe when a sudden downpour occurred. We had the best capaccino I have ever had - with superb coffee and big heaping spoonfuls of real whipping cream, and we all shared a hot brownie and a lemon pie! Delicous - since we had missed lunch we decided this might have coloured our impression of the city. I have to say no one at this point was terribly motivated to return the next day. Also it is a tender port, and the winds were very high, and it was a rough ride from the ship to the pier. Karen had a friend who had recommended a restaurant in the city, and we planned to find it and return for dinner. By some chance we found it a we walked to the pier, but by the time we returned the ship, we all felt it would be too much effort to go back, and I for one couldn't figure out how to dress for dinner and to be dry and safe.
On the way back a school of dolphins delighted everyone and put on a real show, as they jumped and swam alongside in the surf from the tender.
Karen and Captain Jonathan decided to join us in the dining room for dinner, and we had a great evening talking about our cruise and the day.
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